Northern Bretagne to L’Aber Vrac’h

Early morning we left St. Malo to use the tides best we could. It was a whole day sailing and our new sailors fought against sea sickness. But in the evening we reached wonderful خle – de – Bréhat at the Côte Rose, the pink Granit coast which got its name after the colour of its stones. Anchorage was exciting but after 3. Time the captain was happy and we could spent the next day at this bay doing some snorkelling.

In the evening we drove to

Lézardrieux in the nearby river because of changing winds. The day after we went to Trébeurden, a harbour that falls dry outside the sill on ebb. It was fascinating to follow the waters rhythm in raising and falling. Here we spent some days due to hard westerly winds, did some repairs( anchor winch) shopping and used the marinas e bikes a whole day to explore the Pink Coast. Then we continued westward in sometimes rough weather via Roscoff to L’Aber Vrac’h which is the classic waiting point to get a weather situation which allows to cross the bay of biscay. 

From here our new sailors had to go homewards and unfortunately at the last evening even our water pump went out of order. So Brest became our next destination to buy spare parts and replace the pump.

Boulogne-sur-Mer to St. Malo

The Normandy is the area with biggest tidal ranges in Europe which means you have to calculate both tidal streams for the route and times you can get in and out of the harbours. Exciting. We did lots of math under this period. 😀

It was very rainy in Boulogne-sur-Mer but we walked up the hill to the old town and did som shopping.

After 2 days we headed to Dieppe, a nice old fishing town where we stayed som days due to stormy weather. This coast is called Alabaster Coast because of the elongate white cliffs.

Next stop was Fécamp where we arrived in the early evening to find the harbour crowded. So we had to pull up alongside as third boat. But after us arrived a few more and the evening ended with 7 boats alongside in 2 rows which was very unsafe. Especially when the lock to the inner harbour opened….

The next morning was calm and we motored along the coast side to ةtretat to see the famous natural Arches and “the Needle” but due to the grey weather it was difficult to see at all.

So we steered westward to Cherbourg where we arrived early morning next day and got 4 hours sleep before we had to go up to reach Alderney with the tidal stream.

Alderney is a very calm pretty island.

Dinghy parking

On my way to the laundry

Changing the courtesy flag

We did some hiking and had a nice evening at the beach with the crew of “Stressless”. After sailing from Alderney to St. Malo with nice westerly winds which took us 17 hours we arrived round midnight. We reached 10 knots as top speed thanks to the strong current. First marina was busy so we had to pass through a lock to reach the very friendly City Marina St. Malo. Here we met next day Sonja and Axel and stayed som days to explore this beautiful city and the beaches.

Seawater Pool

Out into the North Sea, through the Strait of Dover, English Channel along the French coast

After Petra feeling better but still coughing we dared go out into the North Sea through the lock at Vlissingen the 25th of July.

Because of the tidal streams you must plan the trip accurately taking streams, wind direction and force into account to reach the desired destination and can estimate the time of arrival.At first we had good weather conditions with fair winds, put up our big foresail, the Gennaker, and came up to a speed of 8 knots/hour. Passing the Belgian coast nearby which is not really interesting with its flat coastline interrupted by ugly lines of high houses. In line with The French border it happened again to us, surprise, surprise, in the evening a thunderstorm was passing near by and the wind accelerated to 90 km/h. Quick as a flash we cleared our sails and took cover in the marina of Dunkerque already in the darkness finding our way in the lights of headlamps.

Sleeping for 6 hours we left at 7 am the next morning (to skip paying the harbour fee after 8 am) heading towards Boulogne-sur-Mer with a marina available in all tides.

Have to be continued soon!

Before the Netherlands a visit of Norderney and on we go

The 29th of june after a beautiful day of sailing with only one big sail, the Gennaker, we arrived at the marina of East Friesian island Norderney off the North Sea coast of Germany. It’s German ninth-largest island. The next five days we was captured there because of the stormy weather again mixed with thunderstorm. But that wasn’t so bad, we pulled up our folding bicycles from the “cellar” of our boat and discovered the island with its lovely nature, part of the island is a national park.

On the 4th July after two stormy days the wind had calmed down but the sea was still rough with waves up to 3 meters, especially sailing between the sandbanks out from Norderney was bit of a roller-coaster ride.

It was a long day, passing the East Frisian island Juist and turning southeast at the west coast of the island Borkum into the river mouth of Ems and finding our way in the dark into the industrial harbour of Delfzijl. We moored alongside a pontoon in front of a big lock and locking early the next morning into the canals of The Netherlands. There are countless bascule bridges,

draw bridges,

lifting bridges,

turning bridges,

railway bridges,

motorway bridges,

pedestrian and bicycle bridges,

the most of them free of charge and remote-controlled. It’s a little scary and hopefully the bridge keepers keep on their toes and do not close too early. Sometimes you meet a real bridge keeper at the bridge which is responsible for two or three bridges. They move between the bridges with bicycle or scouter and twice we had to pay the bridge keeper while passing through. The fee has been catching with a wooden clog.

You have to find your way through this labyrinth of waterways (sometimes even an aqueduct)

especially when you have a mast height of about 16 m and a draft of 1.50 m. It took time to plan our route, there are many rules and regulations, but with help of the web, books like “cruising guide to the Netherlands”, our electronic sea charts and also Google maps with its fotos we hide our way on the “Staande mast route”(fixed mast route)

from the north with entrance at Delfzijl, passing right through the centres of Groningen,

Leeuwarden,

Cleaning, this job has to be done from time to time

over the Ijselmeer

to Amsterdam.

Amsterdam can only be passed through with a night convoy because the traffic is to heavy during daytime and therefore they can’t open the bridges for the boats. We didn’t find sufficient information about the convoy and nearly missed it. Despite calling the harbour master via VHF-radio they forgot to inform us at which time the night convoy should start. Calling port control several times we finally succeeded getting through the center of Amsterdam from 1:30 am to 3 o’clock together with 6 other sailing boats with all the bridges open. Nice and exciting!

We continued the next day and had to stay during the night in front of a railway bridge waiting for opening it at 6 o’clock. Passing the busy waterways around Rotterdam with meeting big vessels near by at the streaming Nieuwe Ijsel, (for example the Arch of Noah)

Oude Maas , passing a huge storm barrier

and being held by a faulty lifting bridge at Dordrecht. Therefore we entered the Nieuwe Haven at Dordrecht in the old towns center.

After amazing 360 (700km) nautical miles through the Netherlands we have reached Vlissingen at the Westerschelde in the southern part of The Netherlands.

Pilot harbour guiding the big vessels into the Westerschelde

Here we have been staying in the Schelde marina for 3 days changing engine and gear oil and filter, repairing the solenoid of the windlass, cleaning the boat and Petra has got a flu catching it from me but worse. Just now it’s not sure when we can go out to the North Sea to heading south towards France.

The journey will be continued soon!

From the German coast of the Baltic Sea to the colourful canals in the Netherlands!

23/6, Sunday: Good morning- greeting a beautiful new day with the sun spreading warmth and light. Winching up the anchor the windlass stopped working because of overstrain. The wind instrument which shows the direction and force of the wind (helpful for a better sailing) stopped working too and finally we discovered that all our freshwater has been pumped into the bilge because off a hose has coming loose. I got a nearly hysterical outburst thinking about to complete this journey right now. But where should we go? The boat is our home for the next year, a home which require a lot of work and repairing more than we could have dreamed about.

There is only one way direction – carry on straight through! Continue sailing south long as we get! Petra is playing the more enthusiastic part seeing the light in this disastrous situation. We repaired and regulated some parts on our way!

After sailing from Heiligenhafen west towards the Kielkanal we passed after 50 nautical miles the lock at Kiel-Holtenau.

Captured in the lock with big vessels

Exciting and thrilling to join these big ships nearby with their propellers still going. It’s like rafting with a sailing boat. But we made it 🥵!

It has been late after coming out from the lock and you are not aloud moving at the Kielkanal with pleasure crafts after 10 pm. So after a short run we anchored (Jippi! the windlass is still out of function so I had to lower the anchor by hand, actually 30 kilos with chain) in a small lake beside the Kielkanal with the big vessels passing nearly by during the night.

Petra seized the opportunity to test her diving gear.

The Kielkanal with its dense traffic is about 98 km long with special rules. Listening to the radio traffic canals you get a perception about how crowded with big vessels this canal actually is. They put these vessels together to packages of 3 to 4 with pilots on them. There are meeting areas with traffic lights.

After staying two nights in the Flenhuder lake we left the Kielkanal through the lock at Brunsbüttel out to the river Elbe with its tidal streams having friendly weather with light winds. Going by engine down the Elbe towards Cuxhaven with the current during low tide means that you go 2-3 knots faster than normally. It’s a little bit to exchange your old “VW Käfer” with a Porsche.

In the evening of the 25th of June we have been arriving at the city marina Cuxhaven. To get in from the streaming Elbe you have to put your foot down and blow into the horn. Full speed round the corner into the harbour!

City Marina Cuxhaven really in the towns center

The nice town Cuxhaven has a long history as a fishing capital and in the early 20th Century as the main harbour for the German emigrants to America.

The “Barke”, landmark of Cuxhaven

From Cuxhaven it took us 10 hours for 54 nautical miles in the tidal streams of the North Sea to get “round the corner” into the river Weser to the small marina Horumer Siel within the Wadden Sea.

“Pricke” typical sea mark in the Wadden sea

Typical beach chairs “Strandkörbe” on a green beach

Just now are we in Stavoren/The Netherlands before jumping into the Ijselmeer.

Tomorrow we are moving into a shipyard to get help with the faulty wind instrument. Two times I have been climbing up to the mast head to overhaul the windvane without success. We hope an expert would make the difference!

The next episode follows sometime

Sailing again after one week visit of relatives in Germany

On the 7th of June we left Nyköping heading south.

With the cold wind against us we had to go by machine many hours. During the night the weather became more roughly. Sailing with to reefs in the mainsail we had tested the new wind self steering system which fairly has done a good job. After 22 hours and 115 nautical miles tough work we stayed for a couple of hours to got some rest on the island Idö east of Västervik. Sailing again at 8 pm with course towards Kalmar but again nasty wind against us with only 2 kn by machine we took a berth at Borgholm the biggest town on Sweden second biggest island Öland. Here we got the great opportunity to use the hotel Spa and pool.Next morning we had been passing under Öland bridge,

tanked in Kalmar, passing Kalmar castleand moored in the small marina Grönhögen at the south end of Öland. With a rain deep drawing in from southwest a thunderstorm followed. The weather forecast wasn’t really good to jump over the Baltic Sea to Germany. We decided to take a risk after intensively studying the weather forecast. We thought we could take a corridor between two deeps. But soon after leaving Sweden we was catched up by a nasty fog with sight under 100 m, a bit creepy. Thanks to the radar we felt safe. But worse have been waiting further on. We followed our plan heading south. But the wind grading up to gale with speed up to 70 km/h.We both became seasick, Petra worse, and so she has been missing the fight to got away from a huge thunderstorm easterly to the danish Island Bornholm. Lucky we were, to escape these countless lightning’s. Frightened I was, starting to pray the first time since long ago. In The morning the waves were high as 2.5-3 m and the wind very squally difficult to hold the ship right to the breaking waves. Finally the main sheet traveller ripped off and the mainsail boom hanging loose. Very dangerous, worst case situation out their at the rough sea. After a adrenaline spraying half hour we catched the boom and tied it to the deck. After breathless exhausting 31 hours, 190 nm we took cover at danish island Bornholm’s biggest town Rønne.Leaving the next day13th of June, in good weather with fair winds it was the first time since starting in Gävle that could sail joyfully. We passed a couple of big offshore wind power plants and had carefully sailing sick sac around all the many fishing net which surrounds all these plants.

And then again in the night round about 10 pm a huge thunderstorm with hundreds of lightning’s drawing against us from the German island Rügen. We changed course headlong and sailed back to where we came from. After 5 hours flight the lightning’s ceased and we steered towards our destination Heiligenhafen on the mainland opposite to the island Fehmarn. Last but not least in late afternoon the next thunderstorm was drawing near with its angel predicting, fascinating light contrast but also threatening darkness. Lucky we were to get a sun runway through the dark right through Fehmarnsound under the bridge into the harbour.

Since more then a week we have been moored in the marina Heiligenhafen with clearing away, repairing, serving (after 100 machine hours oil and oilfilter had to be changed), meeting Petras parents and my mother. Several days we got furthermore thunderstorms with changing between dramatic and than clear skies with a full moon. , feeling save if you stay at the jetty in a protected marina. We hadn’t much time to stay at the beach with its typical beach-chairs.

Today, Saturday 22th of a June we have left the marina Heiligenhafen and have dropped anchor opposite to the bird sanctuary, national park Graswader. Tomorrow we will leave towards Kielchannel which is the world’s most frequently used waterway.

Sailing Lucky Star-The journey has started!

We are a couple, Petra and Torsten dreaming 3 long years about sailing across the Atlanticlast year we’ve been starting to realize our dream beginning during buying a Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 34.2 named Lucky Star from year 2000 last summer on the German island Fehmarn. After upgrading the yacht with a radar, wind generator, heater and new VHF-radio we have sailed our new boat up to Gävle at the northern Baltic coast of Sweden. During the winter and spring have we been working breath- and sleepless to fit Lucky Star with additional winches, a saltwater foot pump, automatic bilge pump, refitted the Genua furling system, got a new rig and sails, mounting 20 mast steps, buying a lot of security stuff such as Satellite emergency beacon Epirb, AIS MOB beacon, servicing our life raft, overhauling the dieselengine and m.m. But last not least we have cleared out our house for renting it to a good friend. Not to forget the tremendous bureaucracy.

We have been leaving our home marina Fliskärsvarvet/Gävle Sunday the 26th of may to sail south.

Our journey sailing Lucky Star and still dreaming us over the Atlantic to the Caribbean has been started. Would our dreams come true!!!

Sailing south to Nyköping

The winds wasn’t really fair, mostly from the south and stormy at times. It was pretty cold, but the sun was friendly shining and we were nearly alone at sea. It has been a lot going with enginge. Passing through the Väddö canal was really nice and to get the traffic stopped and the two bridges open only for us at 7 am was feeling great.

Älmsta bridge
Bagghus bridge

We have had a stay over at Furusund with the big cruising vessels passing by a stone’s throw away. And finally after a whole days flight from a threatening storm passing by the fortress “Dalarö Skans” from the 16th centuries, nowadays available for weddings, have been hunted by a container vessel , have we reached the nice marina situated in the river mouth of the Nyköping river.